H.Kishie Singh is based in Chandigarh and has been a motoring correspondent for newspapers like The Statesman, New Delhi and The Tribune.His column ‘Good Motoring’, for The Tribune ran for over 27 years. He has been also been the contributing editor for magazines like Car & Bike, Auto Motor & Sport and Auto India. His latest book Good Motoring was published recently and has co-authored a book with The Dalai Lama, Ruskin Bond, Khuswant Singh and others, called The Whispering Deodars.


Saturday 21 November 2020

4-LANING IN THE HILLS

The Road To Rohtang Pass

Indian Stretchable Time is infamous! Indians are known to be the most unpunctual breed on the Planet. Always in a rush, never on time! Witness the maniacs overtaking from the left or zooming by from the right. You catch them at the next red light. So what was the need to speed?

Some of the most delightful drives in the country, maybe in the world, were the Kalka -Shimla Road, the drive to Manali along the River Beas and the drive onwards from Narkanda. This was the Hindustan-Tibet road and followed the river Satluj. All these drives had one common denomination; mighty mountains, speculator scenery unfolded around every corner and raging rivers.

Slowly, safely, serenely you wound your way along a country road. You had time to enjoy the scenery. For many it was a first brush with the mighty Himalaya, rushing rivers, snow clad peaks.

The journey was relaxing. In the lap of Mother Nature, absorbing its beauty, cocooned in the luxury and safety of your car.

You stopped along the way at a Himachali Dhaba. The king of snacks was of course, a freshly plucked bhutta. As you waited, the mist rolled in and kissed you gently on the cheek. The first few drops of rain on the soil released the petrichor, that delightful earthy smell.

You sat in the car munching on the mountain fresh bhutta, roasted to perfection and garnished with nimboo and rock salt, the rain came thundering down.

All these seven star delights have disappeared in the onslaught of progress.

The Kalka- Shimla Highway is being 4-laned. The idea is to reduce the driving time from 5-6 hours to 3.

Why?

To begin with you will miss the beauty of the mountains, the majestic pine trees, the mighty oaks and colourful rhododendrons.

All thanks to the man- made disaster of 4-laning.

And the moot question; why does anyone want to go to Shimla? No parking, no water, frequent power cuts.

An old Shimla hand, took a friend for a day’s drive to Shimla last summer.

From Victory Tunnel he was direced to Lakkar Baazar, no parking! On to Sanjauli and St.Beads, no parking! On to Chota Shimla. No parking!

Three hours later he was back at Victory Tunnel. He came back to Chandigarh after 12 hours on the road!

With the vast experience of 4-laning the Kalka- Shimla highway, the same engineering experience, or the lack of it is being replicated on the 42 km Kullu-Manali stretch. The current fatality rate is one a day! This is only the beginning.

Again, the same question why does anyone want to go to Manali? The Rohtang Pass of course! All tourist activity in Himachal centres around Rohtang.

Today, the biggest thrill is the drive through the Atal Tunnel. A great experience these winter days.  Drive in from the Manali side and as you exit a landscape white washed with fresh snow greets you.

Before the National Green Tribunal put a cap on cars going to Rohtang Top, it was a free for all to get to the Snow Point. Since there were no rules or restrictions, about 3,000 vehicles would go up to Rohtang Top!

This effectively destroyed the famous Rohtang Pass.

The 100 kilometre drive, Manali-Rohtang and back, was taking 8 to 10 hours! No snow, no tourist activity. You spent the day stuck in traffic! See photograph.

Now swallow this; 965 meter one way Barog bypass tunnel started in 2015, not yet completed. Four years, crores spent. For what? To reduce a distance from Shimla to Chandigarh by 3.5 km. Really! No accountability, no sensibility. No justification.

Do we need 4-laning or do we need to preserve our National Natural Heritage?